Arktos

Arktos is a backwoods crag filled with great climbing and a fantastic secluded next-to-the-lake camping spot just a kilometre away from the action. Arktos is located about an hour northeast of North Bay, and just north of Jocko Rivers Provincial Park.

From North Bay, head east on Hwy 63 for 52 km. Turn left onto McConnell Lake Rd (a logging road) and travel north for 18 km. Shortly after the 18 km sign, there's an opening on the road where you can turn left over a small gravel culvert crossing a creek. Take this turn-off, and continue on this road for 3.7 km to the crag. You'll see that 1 kilometre in, the road Y's - stay to the right. At the 2.4 km mark, it Y's again - again, stay on your right. It is the smaller and worse-looking road of the two, but it is fine to travel down. And, again, at the 2.6 km point the road Y's again - this time, stay on your left to get to the crag; if at this point if you turn right instead, less than a kilometre down this road there is a great campsite next to Dymond Lake. 3.7 km total from turning off of McConnell Lake Road is where you park, on your right, and the cliff is to the left, visible through the trees.

Arktos right wall r1.jpeg
Pol-Italia
Arktos left wall.jpeg
Chasm of Death

Routes

 

 1  Closed Project 

Please do not climb.

 2  Bee Whisperer | 5.9 | 22m

FFA Artur Makos 2020 

A very fun line following a left-facing flake eating up big gear. Bolted anchors on top.

 3  Closed Project

Please do not climb.

 

 4  Closed Project

Please do not climb.

 5  Invisible Hummingbird | 5.11a | 8 bolts

FFA Artur Makos 

Start at the obvious mini-roof and push through some interesting moves to the top.

 

 6  Resistance is Futile | 5.11b | 7 bolts

FFA Matt Guenther 2021

A collective of stellar holds with a full-throttle start.

 7  Endless Afternoon | 5.10d | 11 bolts

FFA Karen Guenther 2021

Begin on a large jug on the vertical face to the right of the suspended boulder. Follow the bolts up to a good ledge. Continue up through a crux to the top rail.

 8  One Legged Taper | 5.10b | 30m

FFA Artur Makos 2021

a. The left zig zag line to the left of Endless Afternoon. It is done as a mixed line using the last three bolts of EA and shares the anchor. 

b. A potential right line yet to be climbed.

 

 9  Long European Vacation | 5.10a | 9 bolts

FFA Marco Foladore 2021

A fun and obvious warm-up dihedral.

 10  Cadence | 5.10c | 6 bolts

FFA Matt Guenther

A fantastic and visually-pleasing arête with a spicy transition to the top.

 11  Open Project

Potentially 5.12

 

 12  Pol-Italia  | 5.10a | 8 bolts

FFA Artur Makos, Marco Foladore

A high-fun-factor climb.

 13  Over the Chasm of Death | 5.11a | 9 bolts

FFA Artur Makos, Marco Foladore 2021

Follow the bolts to the small roof, pull the fun roof moves to the anchor.

 14  Two Suitcases Each | 5.10d | 11 bolts 

FFA Artur Makos 2021

 

 15  Retired to Climb | 5.8 | 19m

FFA Artur Makos 2021 

 

 16  The Incredible Arktos | 5.11a | 49m

FA Artur Makos, Matt Guenther

Pitch 1: 5.10a, follow the obvious right diagonal line. It can be a mixed climb as you can use the bolts as you pass the vertical sport routes. Use the anchor from Pol-Italia as your first anchor.

Pitch 2: 5.11a, continue up the diagonal crack to the obvious vertical exit. Belay from the tree. 

 

5FC95F12-9143-47D8-849F-18EA202EE57B.jpe
Long European Vacation
Cadence.jpg
Cadence