Arktos
Arktos is a backwoods crag filled with great climbing and a fantastic secluded next-to-the-lake camping spot just a kilometre away from the action. Arktos is located about an hour northeast of North Bay, and just north of Jocko Rivers Provincial Park.
From North Bay, head east on Hwy 63 for 52 km. Turn left onto McConnell Lake Rd (a logging road) and travel north for 18 km. Shortly after the 18 km sign, there's an opening on the road where you can turn left over a small gravel culvert crossing a creek. Take this turn-off, and continue on this road for 3.7 km to the crag. You'll see that 1 kilometre in, the road Y's - stay to the right. At the 2.4 km mark, it Y's again - again, stay on your right. It is the smaller and worse-looking road of the two, but it is fine to travel down. And, again, at the 2.6 km point the road Y's again - this time, stay on your left to get to the crag; if at this point if you turn right instead, less than a kilometre down this road there is a great campsite next to Dymond Lake. 3.7 km total from turning off of McConnell Lake Road is where you park, on your right, and the cliff is to the left, visible through the trees.
Pol-Italia
Chasm of Death
Routes
Tooth Wall
1 Shark bait | 5.10d | 4 bolts
FFA Matt Guenther 2021
A short, but aesthetic line on The Tooth (separate rock to climbers right from Balcony)
Layback, kick your feet up and enjoy the tension
Balcony Wall
2 Future is Now | 5.6 | 15m
FFA Artur Makos 2021
Easy and fun trad line on the left side of the Balcony. Follow dihedral all the way to the top where you can find anchors. Access to the top of the climb from the Balcony. Short walk up the gully on the right of The tooth to get there.
Central Wall
3 Sensor Array | 5.11a | 6 bolts
FFA Karen Guenther May 2023
Start in the dihedral. Scan the possibilities to the chains. An enticing piece of rock.
4 Tapes & CD's | 5.10d | 9 bolts
FFA Kieran North May 2022
Tread lightly on the hollow flakes to gain the first handful of bolts. A cruxy traverse right, followed by a pumpy finish.
5 Exhilaration | 5.10a | 8 bolts
FFA Karen Guenther 2021
Line to the right of The Bee Whisperer. Climb the rock face to the system of cracks and flakes and a small roof which needs to be pulled to reach the anchor shuts. A high fun factor climb.
6 The Bee Whisperer | 5.9 | 22m
FFA Artur Makos 2020
A very fun line following a left-facing flake eating up big gear. Bolted anchors on top.
7 The Bloody Kettle | Open Project | 5.11b
8 Bad Larry | 5.11a | 11 bolts
Open Project | Tr'd by Artur Makos
Very sustained pumpy climb for the grade on slightly overhanging wall.
9 Less Is More | Open Project | 5.12b/c
10 Closed Project | Please do not climb.
11 Invisible Hummingbird | 5.11a | 8 bolts
FFA Artur Makos
Start at the obvious mini-roof and push through some interesting moves to the top.
12 Resistance is Futile | 5.11b | 7 bolts
FFA Matt Guenther 2021
A collective of stellar holds with a full-throttle start.
13 Future bolting project
14 Be Bold, Start Cold | 5.10d | 11 bolts
FFA Karen Guenther June 2022
A tricky boulder start then cruisy until the second crux at the bulge.
15 Endless Afternoon | 5.10d | 11 bolts
FFA Karen Guenther 2021
Begin on a large jug on the vertical face to the right of the suspended boulder. Follow the bolts up to a good ledge. Continue up through a crux to the top rail.
16 One Legged Taper | 5.10b | 30m
FFA Artur Makos 2021
a. The left zig zag line to the left of Endless Afternoon. It is done as a mixed line using the last three bolts of EA and shares the anchor.
b. A potential right line yet to be climbed.
Great Roof & Pol-Italia Wall
17 Long European Vacation | 5.10a | 9 bolts
FFA Marco Foladore 2021
A fun and obvious warm-up dihedral.
18 Cadence | 5.10c | 6 bolts
FFA Matt Guenther
A fantastic and visually-pleasing arête with a spicy transition to the top.
19 Any Given Sunday | 5.12a/b | 6 bolts
FFA Matt Guenther
Sustained crimps to a crux full of harsh language.
20 Pol-Italia | 5.10a | 8 bolts
FFA Artur Makos, Marco Foladore
A high-fun-factor climb.
21 Over the Chasm of Death | 5.11a | 9 bolts
FFA Artur Makos, Marco Foladore 2021
Follow the bolts to the small roof, pull the fun roof moves to the anchor.
22 Two Suitcases Each | 5.10d | 11 bolts
FFA Artur Makos 2021
23 Retired to Climb | 5.8 | 19m
FFA Artur Makos 2021
24 The Incredible Arktos | 5.11a | 49m
FA Artur Makos, Matt Guenther
Pitch 1: 5.10a, follow the obvious right diagonal line. It can be a mixed climb as you can use the bolts as you pass the vertical sport routes. Use the anchor from Pol-Italia as your first anchor.
Pitch 2: 5.11a, continue up the diagonal crack to the obvious vertical exit. Belay from the tree.
Cadence
Long European Vacation
