Arktos

Arktos is a backwoods crag filled with great climbing and a fantastic secluded next-to-the-lake camping spot just a kilometre away from the action. Arktos is located about an hour northeast of North Bay, and just north of Jocko Rivers Provincial Park.

From North Bay, head east on Hwy 63 for 52 km. Turn left onto McConnell Lake Rd (a logging road) and travel north for 18 km. Shortly after the 18 km sign, there's an opening on the road where you can turn left over a small gravel culvert crossing a creek. Take this turn-off, and continue on this road for 3.7 km to the crag. You'll see that 1 kilometre in, the road Y's - stay to the right. At the 2.4 km mark, it Y's again - again, stay on your right. It is the smaller and worse-looking road of the two, but it is fine to travel down. And, again, at the 2.6 km point the road Y's again - this time, stay on your left to get to the crag; if at this point if you turn right instead, less than a kilometre down this road there is a great campsite next to Dymond Lake. 3.7 km total from turning off of McConnell Lake Road is where you park, on your right, and the cliff is to the left, visible through the trees.

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Pol-Italia
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Chasm of Death

Routes

Tooth Wall

 1  Shark bait | 5.10d | 4 bolts

FFA Matt Guenther 2021

A short, but aesthetic line on The Tooth (separate rock to climbers right from Balcony)

Layback, kick your feet up and enjoy the tension

Balcony Wall

 2  Future is Now | 5.6 | 15m 

FFA Artur Makos 2021

Easy and fun trad line on the left side of the Balcony. Follow dihedral all the way to the top where you can find anchors. Access to the top of the climb from the Balcony. Short walk up the gully on the right of The tooth to get there.

Central Wall

 3  What She Said | Open project

 4   What He Said Open project

 5  Exhilaration | 5.10a | 8 bolts

FFA Karen Guenther 2021

Line to the right of The Bee Whisperer. Climb the rock face to the system of cracks and flakes and a small roof which needs to be pulled to reach the anchor shuts. A high fun factor climb.

 6 The Bee Whisperer | 5.9 | 22m

FFA Artur Makos 2020 

A very fun line following a left-facing flake eating up big gear. Bolted anchors on top.

 7  The Bloody Kettle | Open Project | 5.11b

 8  Bad Larry | 5.11a | 11 bolts

Open Project | Tr'd by Artur Makos

Very sustained pumpy climb for the grade on slightly overhanging wall.

 9  Less Is More | Open Project | 5.12b/c

 10  Closed Project | Please do not climb.

 11 Invisible Hummingbird | 5.11a | 8 bolts

FFA Artur Makos 

Start at the obvious mini-roof and push through some interesting moves to the top.

 

 12 Resistance is Futile | 5.11b | 7 bolts

FFA Matt Guenther 2021

A collective of stellar holds with a full-throttle start.

 13  Closed Project | Please do not climb.

 14  Closed Project | Please do not climb.

 15 Endless Afternoon | 5.10d | 11 bolts

FFA Karen Guenther 2021

Begin on a large jug on the vertical face to the right of the suspended boulder. Follow the bolts up to a good ledge. Continue up through a crux to the top rail.

 16 One Legged Taper | 5.10b | 30m

FFA Artur Makos 2021

a. The left zig zag line to the left of Endless Afternoon. It is done as a mixed line using the last three bolts of EA and shares the anchor. 

b. A potential right line yet to be climbed.

Great Roof & Pol-Italia Wall

 

 17 Long European Vacation | 5.10a | 9 bolts

FFA Marco Foladore 2021

A fun and obvious warm-up dihedral.

 18 Cadence | 5.10c | 6 bolts

FFA Matt Guenther

A fantastic and visually-pleasing arête with a spicy transition to the top.

 19 Open Project

Potentially 5.12

 

 20 Pol-Italia  | 5.10a | 8 bolts

FFA Artur Makos, Marco Foladore

A high-fun-factor climb.

 21 Over the Chasm of Death | 5.11a | 9 bolts

FFA Artur Makos, Marco Foladore 2021

Follow the bolts to the small roof, pull the fun roof moves to the anchor.

 22 Two Suitcases Each | 5.10d | 11 bolts 

FFA Artur Makos 2021

 

 23 Retired to Climb | 5.8 | 19m

FFA Artur Makos 2021 

 

 24 The Incredible Arktos | 5.11a | 49m

FA Artur Makos, Matt Guenther

Pitch 1: 5.10a, follow the obvious right diagonal line. It can be a mixed climb as you can use the bolts as you pass the vertical sport routes. Use the anchor from Pol-Italia as your first anchor.

Pitch 2: 5.11a, continue up the diagonal crack to the obvious vertical exit. Belay from the tree. 

 

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Cadence
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Long European Vacation
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Cadence