Capreol
Capreol | N46 44 10 W80 55 38
Approach
Once at the Tim Hortons in Capreol continue north on Hwy 84 also called Sellwood Ave in Capreol then subsequently Moose Mountain Mine Road for 4.5 km. On your right will be Rock Cut Lake, and just after the sharp left hand turn will be the crag, park on the south side of the road facing back into Capreol. There is flagging tape indicating the trail to the cliff. The path is about 100 ft and will get you to the base of the right most climb, Born of Want and Need. Climb the small embankment up and to the left to access the shelf that will get you to the base of the rest of the climbs.
This is a great entry level crag for trad climbing as it offers easy leads and great protectable routes. A 60 ft slab which is the only slab climbing in the Sudbury area. A couple of spicy sport lines as well. A one minute approach from the car is also a nice treat.
NOTE: This crag is undergoing development. You will find anchors at the top of various climbs that are not yet indicated and you may find deadfall and boulders at the base.
Routes
1. Look for the Positive | 5.5
The first obvious line around the left corner from Night Shift Blues
2. Night Shift Blues | 5.4
First major crack to the left of the rappel slab.
3. Tip Toe | 5.9
Right below the rappel station, located at the big white pine.
4. Moss Crack | 5.5
5. Bridge to Captain Kirk | 5.5
6. Vertical Gardening | 5.5
5 meters to the right of Captain Kirk, behind the red pine.
7. Broken Rock | 5.5
5 m to the right behind the white pine
8. Slippery When Wet | 5.9 | 8 bolts
FFA Zachary Watson July 2020
Very chill slab and really fun climb with a small harder section to keep it real.
9. Just Because | 5.6
A fun vertical stroll.
10. Comfortably Addicted | 5.10a/d | 12 bolts
FFA Marco Foladore Fall 2019
The obvious 60ft bolted slab. At the 3/4 point you will hit a crux which will bump the grade up to 10d, if you feel like a 10a kinda day move around the crux to the left on the arete and then gun for the top back onto the face.
11. Born of Want and Need | 5.11a | Mixed 6 bolts
FFA Marco Foladore Fall 2019
First climb located on the main wall as you approach from the trail. Mixed route that requires a piece or two of gear at the start. Two variations to this route - some climb to the left, some to the right at the start around the block, that will get you to a comfortable ledge where you will find the start to the dihedral, grade and bolts. This is a very techy climb for the grade.
12. Shoulders Of Giants | 5.7 | Mixed 2 bolts
FFA Matt Guenther August 2020
Climbs the rock shoulder to the right of Born of Want and need.
Born of Want and Need
Tip Toe
Bridge to Captain Kirk
Moss Crack
