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McCrae Lake

McCrae Lake is the highest quality of rock in our area and a dream to climb.

From Sudbury, head approx 220 km south on Hwy 69 until the Georgian Bay Rd/Crooked Bay Rd exit 168. Take your first right 140m once exited to the parking area. From here it's a 40-minute hike to the Eagle's Nest lookout where you will descend to the south side of the cliff to access the climbing. Climber's right. When headed back to Sudbury, turn right out of the parking lot otherwise you will be placed on the south bound 400 if you turn left. If the parking lot is full, there is an overflow parking about ten minutes walk away at N44 55'09" W79 46' 19".

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Warm Up
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Warm Up
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McCrae Right 2.jpg

 1  Readlining | 5.6 | Trad

Starts at a short slab behind bushes. Follow the obvious crack to the right to a roof, then up right of the overhanging blocks. Move a little left and up to the ledge by the small red dyke. Move back right on the ledge and up the final head wall to finish where the large red dyke meets the top of the cliff.

 

 2  Sloppy P | 5.8 | Trad

Starts at the water level up the face to the arête for 15 feet then venture up the slab for 60 feet to the top. Bolted anchor. The slab has multiple mossy and wet finger pockets.

 

 3  Pandemic Solution | 5.11a | 9 bolts

            A water start route that is equipped with shared low bolts to be used as a hanging              belay. Either rap in or climb the Unknown 5.8, then, swing over to the bolts for a                  hanging belay then potentially climb out.

 4  Big Bertha | 5.10b | trad

Another water start route, again with shared low bolts to be used as a hanging belay.

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 5  Muskoka Gold | 5.11 | 5 bolts

A short but very fun line, rap in access. Rappel in: Continue past the top of The Seamstress to the next rocky point that looks like a wave. Find a bolt beneath a bush 10 feet back from the edge back up with the tree if you'd like. Build an anchor and rappel straight down to a 2 bolt anchor. Build an anchor and pull the rope. Pre-clip an extended draw from the bolt 1 foot back from the top of the route to facilitate.

Muskoka Gold: Climb the easy corner to short headwall. Good hold on the right and big move to a left-hand crimp. Slopers on the upper right rail. Compression moves to the top jug and pop over the top. 

 6  Unknown | 5.8 | bolts

A short but fun line.

 7  Baby Flatanger | 5.11a | bolts

Climbs the face around the left of the Seamstress

 8  Scissors Cut | Unknown grade | bolts

            A crack system just left of the Seamstress with a chain anchor.

 

 9  Seamstress | 5.12c | 10 bolts

            An impressive climb with fantastic rock quality. Many say one of Ontario’s best climbs.

 

 10  Everyone Is Nuts | Unknown Grade | Mixed

This line follows the line in between Seamstress and Warmup and has two rusty bolts in line with the roof.

 

 11  Warm Up | 5.11 | 7 bolts

            A must do if in the area and in your pay grade.

 12  Pandemic Isolation | 5.10a | Trad

The crack system to the right of the Warmup. Spicy start for the grade to some super fun and cruisy climbing including a fun roof. Bolted anchor.

 13  Matt’s Route | 5.10a | 5 bolts

            A line of bolts leading up the slab to a large ledge where you will find the anchors. 

 14  Crackers | 5.7 | Trad PG

            Climb the slab to the right of Matt’s route, thin gear and may need some cleaning.

From the large ledge above Crackers and Matt's Route are two routes, you can do these lines as one longer pitch:

 

 15  Desperado | 5.10c | 3 bolts

            A steep line with awkward and balancy moves.

 

 16  Pockets are Good | 5.9 | 3 bolts

            A superb climb on steep rock with large pockets.

 17 Trevor’s Fantastic Voyage into Happyland | 5.10b | Trad X

The climb starts around 15m right from Crackers with anchors on top. A long run out section on top and is suggested to be climbed on top rope.

 

 18  Bow and Arrow | 5.10b | Mixed

This climb shares the start with Squirmish. Climb the vertical cracks to reach the ledge above a small roof. Climb the left layback crack in the roof. Follow the ramp above to the right behind which two anchor bolts can be found.

 

 19  Squirmish | 5.11 A1 | Mixed

As with Bow and Arrow climb one of the cracks to a small roof and ledge under the large roof that has two bolts. From this point venture out right with a bolt to a small chimney. The move from the bolt to the chimney may require an aid move. The anchors are behind the tree on top.

 

 20  Caesar Salad | 5.9 | 4 bolts

Furthest sport route to the right of the crag. This route climbs through two overhangs to a dihedral and up another over hang to the anchors.

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Seamstress
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Bow and Arrow
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Warm Up
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Matt's Route
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Pandemic Isolation

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