Riverside Rock (Aka, the Shotgun)
Riverside is 11—120 m high roadside cliff in a beautiful position beside the Little White River. See Eyeball guide for detailed information on access. The cliff is made up of a combination of intrusive sedimentary rock with lots of handholds but some loose rock and Killarney Granite. Towards its left side, a prominent vertical wall rises from 75 m at its highest point to a large, forested ledge known as the North Channel. The North Channel cannot be accessed, or exited, except by technical climbing or rappel. Above the North Channel, another 20-40 metres of climbing remains.
1 Bullets Before Breakfast | 5.10a | 115m
FFA Reg Smart, David Smart, John Kaandorp, June 20 2020
The first rock route to climb to the top of Riverside Rock. Maybe the longest sport climb in Ontario, but there is still some loose rock and descent is by rappel. Bring twenty draws and a 70 metre rope.
Flagging tape on the road, some 100-150m left of the ice route, The Thing, a giant, overhanging, wet black and white smear in the summer, marks the trail that leads steeply for 50 metres to the base, start at a bolted rib of rock.
Pitch 1, 5.8, 25m: the rib to a ledge with juniper. .
Pitch 2,5.9, 15m: Cross a gully on the right and traverse a ledge until a couple of steep moves lead to the belay.
Pitch 3, 5.10a, 30m: Climb the wall above to the comfortable Lucky Ledge.
Pitch 4, 5.9, 25m: A steep groove blocked by a chockstone and an easy slab lead to bolts just below the top.
Pitch 5, Scramble a couple of metres to the top, unrope on the huge North Channel Ledge (see above), and follow flagging tape 70m to the left to a bolt belay where the ledge ends. (70-75m walking)
Pitch 6, 5.8, 20m: The Lightning Pitch. Exposed climbing leads up a wall to a ledge with two prominent trees that have been hit by lightning.
Descend by rappelling the route to the top of the second pitch, from which a 35m rappel reaches the ground.
2 Ride a Rubber Gator | 5.11 | 25m
FA: Dave and Reg Smart, August 02 2020
FFA Artur Makos and Marco Foladore, August 2020
From the top of BBB walk up and right across the North Channel Ledge to the final tier. Before it turns rightwards and becomes less vertical, just left of a vegetated gully, there is a steep clean 30 m vertical wall with two splitter cracks. The crack on the right is RARG.
Decend by lowering off of rings or third class climbing on ledges to the top.